OXIDISED WINES - SHOWING THEIR METAL

Some wines are 'difficult'. Unfriendly nose with an excess of terroir, missing a fresh, fruity taste and reluctant to exhibit their true worth. For those who are prepared to make the effort, these wines can be persuaded to reveal themselves by the correct treatment - temperature, aeration, the shape of the glass etc. - and also through a well considered food pairing. An acquired taste eminently linked to extreme gastronomic wines, often with the oxidised tones found in white Rioja (Tondonia) or Chenin Blanc from the Loire. Hungarian wines made from the indigenous Furmint grape variety exhibit this difficulty.... or should that be 'merit'. Producers such as Szepsy, nicknamed the 'Furmint General ', take pride in this characteristic - thus beating, I'm sorry to say, many Yquems.

During the Wine Professional 2011 in Amsterdam, Thérèse and Jonnie Boer - the hostess/sommelier and owner/chef from the 3 star Michelin restaurant De Librije in Zwolle, The Netherlands, were invited to prepare dishes to match with these troublesome wines. Faultless combinations like no other; especially those from their new menu (see www.librije.com ).

During our recent visit to Copenhagen - the new gastronomic capital - most restaurants were pouring varieties of oxidised wines in their wine arrangements. Interestingly, the sommeliers were eager to match these wines with the pure flavours of the modern Nordic cuisine - but when the guests were left to their own devices and ordered bottles from the wine list they chose stubborn young, fruity French wines. A case of the restaurant trying to be cutting-edge and the guests favouring safe alternatives. Happily, many clients are willing to surrender to the sommeliers choice.

The culinary artistry of the chefs in the Danish capital has developed a unique cuisine - something to write home about - we will do exactly that in the next blog....

For the new menu: www.librije.com
Visit our website: www.vanderendt-lindsey.com